Wally’s Bordeaux Blog – Vintage 2014 Dispatches from Bordeaux – Part 3

Posted on Posted in Wine

Tuesday, April 14th

geoffff

Another early start today, heading out of Bordeaux at 7:45am to return to the Medoc. Today we will visit the rest of the major Left Bank chateaux, beginning with morning appointments at Leoville Barton, Montrose, Calon Segur, Latour, Leoville Poyferre and Rauzan Segla. Highlights of this morning’s tastings:

2014 Chateau Langoa Barton
-A complete, deep, open knit nose of dark red fruit with hints of spice box. This is medium bodied but classic Langoa with accessible exuberant fruit for a St Julien. Very nice.

geoffff
2014 Chateau Tronquoy Lalande
-A somewhat reticent dark fruit and dusty stone driven nose. Really good weight and richness on the powerful palate, tannic. This is a more muscular Tronquoy Lalande, really shows the quality of St. Estephe in this vintage, clearly their best since the 2010.

2014 Chateau Montrose
-A lovely beguiling nose. Pure, fine dark fruit and crushed stones, sensual on the seamless palate. Velvety with very good weight, but not overly heavy. Gorgeous texture, the tannin and oak are well integrated. Powerful, terroir-driven and polished. Montrose has really gone to another level over the past few years and this is nearly as good as the 100 point 2010. Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, it’s astonishing the way Montrose has been able to make substantial improvements while retaining an un-erring purity of character. Bravo!

geoffff

2014 Chateau Calon Segur
-Expressive dark berry fruit and kirsch on the nose, nice texture, but very tannic at this stage. Good freshness, this has a somewhat perfumed, feminine profile but with power. Marked by a more modern style than in years past. We are starting to see the new direction of the new ownership and it appears they are taking their stylistic cues more from Cos than Montrose. Rather flamboyant with little of the rusticity of the old regime.

IMG_4602 IMG_4605

geoffff

geoffff
2014 Chateau Latour
-Reticent with hints of iron, cassis and gravel. Nice fruit on the attack. Powerful, muscular and tannic. Midweight and somewhat austere at this point, but the finish is very long. Not offered en Primeur.

2003 Chateau Latour
-Sexy, musky, truffles and sous bois. Decadent oak tones, walnuts, leather, cigar box on the nose. Sweet on the attack, nicely mature at this stage. Finishes soft, but well wrapped up with good length. A rather exotic, hedonistic Latour but certainly providing a lot of pleasure right now.

2014 Chateau Leoville Poyferre
-Dark color, sexy, crème de cassis on the nose. Plush and ripe. Nice mid-palate weight with a good amount of fat along a tannic backbone. Forward, round and charming. This is very generous and seems somewhat atypical for the vintage. A lot of sweet tannin and rather low in acid. This will likely drink well relatively early.

2014 Chateau Rauzan Segla
-Sweet and earthy on the nose, lovely silky palate with excellent volume and a strong tannic backbone. Medium plus body. This has a floral red fruit character on the palate that is classic Margaux, but its serious and long.

Lunch today is at Rauzan Segla with the chateau’s longtime Director John Kolasa. This will be John’s final vintage at Rauzan as he is retiring later in the year. Joining us for lunch is new winemaker and director Nicolas Audebert who was previously the winemaker at Cheval des Andes in Mendoza. We have a fun lunch discussing the history of Rauzan Segla and the new direction of the estate. Nicolas’ sensibilities are very closely aligned with John’s so it seems the chateau’s trademark style will remain elegant and classical. Lunch is accompanied by some treats from the cellar. 2001 Segla (a nice mature vintage of Rauzan Segla’s second wine, tannins are completely resolved and this is drinking really well 13 years after release), 1998 Chateau Canon (barely an adolescent, this shows the fantastic quality of ‘98 in the right bank. Earthy and powerful but very elegant), 1983 Chateau Rauzan Segla (beautifully mature, another sleeper vintage that is legendary in Margaux. Drinking perfectly right now.) and 1966 La Lagune from magnum (a real treat, completely resolved but this shows no signs of fading, delicate with fine fruit from the warm ’66 vintage.)

After saying our goodbyes we head back up to Pauillac to continue our appointments. Highlights of the afternoon’s tastings:

2014 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
-87% Cabernet Sauvignon. A dark opaque color, this is dense and inky with that classic Lafite graphite and gravel buried under black and blue fruit and toasty oak. Very concentrated and muscular, this is somewhat austere at the moment but with lots of potential. Should be long-lived.

2014 Chateau Pichon Baron
-80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Pretty, ripe dark fruit with cedar and pencil lead on the nose. Classic Pauillac. Excellent volume in the mouth, good concentration. Nice tannic structure and good freshness in a midweight style. A very zen expression of Pichon Baron, the muscle is there, it’s like 2010 just with the volume turned down a bit. Like so many in this vintage, it’s like a welterweight fighter as opposed to a heavyweight.

geoffff2014 Chateau Palmer
-Very dark, plums, earth, mineral and animal on the nose. Delicate and silky in the mouth but finishes with substantial structure. Fresh with crisp acid. Lots of length, chewy and taut on the finish. A dark, muscular, masculine expression of Palmer, should be quite age-worthy.

Dinner tonight is at the brand new La Grande Maison Joel Robuchon with Frederic Engerer, Director of Chateau Latour. Walking in it’s clear this is the finest restaurant in Bordeaux aiming squarely at three Michelin Stars. The stunning tasting menu is an intricate parade of Robuchon’s trademark dishes with beautiful presentation and the highest level technique. Service is at the highest level of professionalism and attentiveness. A bottle of 2008 Domaine d’Eugenie Clos Vougeot is showing beautifully, just beginning to shed its tannin with lovely fruit, displaying the pure, transparent character of the 2008 vintage. The 2000 Chateau Latour on the other hand is unbelievably youthful. Guessing blind I’d almost peg it as the 2005 it’s so primary and tightly wound. A massive wine, it will need another 10 years before thinking about touching it, but it’s fun to check in on its evolution tonight.

After an absolutely flawless dinner it’s time to head home and get some rest before we head for the right bank and Pessac-Leognan tomorrow. I can’t help but marvel at what Robuchon has done here in Bordeaux. La Grande Maison is truly as good as any 3-Star in Paris. Wow!

-Written by Geoff Pattison, Director of Imports

Read up on previous dispatches from Bordeaux:
Dispatches from Bordeaux – Part 2